Hit a finger strength plateau? This is the post for you...

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Why are my fingers not getting stronger anymore?!

Have you hit a wall with hangboarding? Where you can’t seem to progress despite training regularly?

You could be a little fatigued… it could be other external factors, like poor sleep or diet…

But… if this stagnation is lasting months, or even years, then it could be a dreaded plateau!

So how do we overcome it?

Hangboarding

Take a look over your recent fingerboard sessions.

If you have been using the same protocol for a while, it’s time to change things up!

You could consider:

• Longer duration, reduced load hangs or pick-ups
• Shorter duration, increased load hangs or pick-ups
• High intensity repeaters

When reviewing your training history, don't forget to consider what you’ve responded to well in the past.

If there was a specific session that worked well for you 18 months ago, but you haven’t used it since, get straight back on it!

Bouldering

Don't forget to switch up your bouldering sessions, as we often fall into the trap of sticking with what we enjoy. Doing the same sessions every week can lead to a plateau in progress, so it's a good idea to vary your training stimulus.

Here are some options to consider; if you find yourself consistently doing one, try switching to another:

• Boulder Mileage – 20 problems in an hour; flash grade and below.
• Boulder Pyramid – A mixed intensity session where we pyramid the intensity.
• Limit Boulders – All-out, maximum effort problems.
• Boulder Triples – Repeating hard problems with short rest intervals.
• Linked boulders – Linking problems to create longer climbs.

Conclusion: How to break a finger strength plateau

The key to breaking your finger strength plateau is mixing up your training stimulus. If you've fallen into a routine, break it! Variety is important and will ensure adaptation (and muscle growth) continues to happen.

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